Hand Plane Ergonomics
Rough draft of my next article for FW Magazine...
In this series, I have been exploring how to make and modify handles for common hand tools, with a focus on ergonomics. The motivation is personal: I live with chronic hand pain from tendonitis and arthritis—complications of hemophilia and years of repetitive work—and small changes in tool design make a big difference. But whether you spend a few hours a week in the shop or build full time, it’s worth thinking about how your tools meet your hands. Today’s discussion is around the ergonomics of different hand plane styles in Western woodworking, focusing on their comfort and chronic pain.
The earliest hand planes were simply blades embedded in wooden blocks. Their primary function was to slice wood at a consistent depth, in contrast to the more variable depths produced by other hand tools such as chisels, hatchets, or knives. Many of us still prefer the wooden body styles of planes, even though modern industry has left them behind. These planes are lighter, warmer to the touch, glide more smoothly without oil or wax, and are mechanically simpler. Although Stanley introduced its first metal-bodied plane in 1867, wooden-bodied planes continued to be produced in the United States until approximately 1920. There are some modern wooden plane makers out there (including Japanese and Euro styles), but most of the planes of this style you will find are old.
My 22-inch jointer plane, for example, weighs a full pound less than my Stanley No. 7. While wooden-bodied planes require some practice to adjust, generations of skilled woodworkers managed this with nothing more than a small hammer. The basic grip involves a pistol grip with the right hand, while the left hand either grips the body overhand or lightly rides along the top or left edge. Ergonomically, the most common complaint is the large, blocky shape. Over time, however, I have learned to minimize thumb engagement—my most painful joint—by allowing the weight of my left arm to engage the front. Despite its bulky appearance, I regularly use this plane for fine work in my lutherie shop, including jointing pieces for invisible glue joints. User tip: wooden planes work best with some speed to the stroke. Take advantage of the light weight and give it some forward motion, you might be surprised how easily they cut this way.
The next style to consider is the so-called “transitional” plane, produced by Stanley and others into the mid-twentieth century. These planes combine a wooden body with a metal frog, blade, and adjustment mechanism. The right-hand grip remains a pistol grip, while the left hand either grasps a knob (if it has one) or lays on top. Although some find the knob more comfortable than grasping the full body of a traditional wooden plane, I find it more painful because it forces my hand into a smaller, compressed shape. I own a British example made by Marples, known as a “technical” jack plane. It would be a daily user were it not for a critical flaw: when holding the pistol grip, my right hand cannot reach the adjustment mechanism. This eliminates the one-handed adjustability that is a key advantage of modern planes. If I must stop and use both hands to adjust the plane, I would rather use a traditional wooden plane and a hammer. That said, it excels in weight, at 2.1 pounds compared to the 4.4-pound Stanley No. 5.
